A Guide to Positano, Italy
It is that time of year again… June has hit which means there is a tsunami of European summer photos flooding my feeds. Instead of being jealous (which I am), I thought I would be helpful instead and pen a few of my tips on how the have the best time in Positano on the Amalfi Coast of Italy. The locals here call the town “Ausitano” because so many Australians visit the cliff-side town each year, and it’s easy to understand why - picture-perfect scenery, Aperol Spritzs at every turn and the more pasta than you can poke a fork at.
Where to eat & drink:
Before going to Positano everyone told me to go to Da Adolfo, and I wish they didn’t. I came, I saw and a conquered a huge bowl of spaghetti vongole, but I was underwhelmed as the staff there just want you to eat and then get the hell out of there so they can fit the other 500 Aussies waiting for a seat. The beach where it is located is also small and you’re at the mercy of little boats to get you there and back. I suggest going to Arienzo Beach Club instead. The food is a lot better, the beach is bigger and best of all you can walk there (up about 300 incredibly steep steps) where you can catch glimpses of some of the most beautiful villas along the way to distract you from your burning calf muscles. I suggest you book ahead the day before, for both a daybed with umbrella and a lunch reservation too. If walking isn’t your jam, the restaurant also arranges boat transfers from the main dock in town.
This small bar sits above the bulk of the bars and restaurants down below. It is part of the Le Sirenuse Hotel which is the one of the best and well known luxury hotels on the Amalfi. Drinks here aren’t cheap, but you pay for those quintessential postcard views over Positano below. I recommend getting there right when it opens so you can snag a seat at the front of the bar so you’re less distracted by the amount of selfie taking that takes place against the backdrop.
A disclaimer: this restaurant is as touristy as it gets and it runs like a well oiled machine. There are two sittings per night and no menu. They will just bring plate, after plate, after plate, after plate of food, I am not kidding, there is more food than even I could consume. Pace yourself and keep in mind you have a very windy trip home down the mountain. As far as the food goes, some dishes are better than others, but all in all it was delicious and a nice break from the stock standard pizza and pasta you find everywhere else. La Tagliata is located on top of the hill way out of town so make sure you book ahead and organise a transfer and ensure you go for the first sitting of the night so you can enjoy the incredible sunset views.
When every drink is costing you 15 euro or more, and you just want a simple meal, then Latteria is the place to go. Its an adorable Italian grocer that has been running here since 1955. We stocked up on all our groceries here and supplies for your boat day too, including homegrown basil, the reddest tomatoes you have ever seen and freshly made balls of gooey burrata and crusty bread to lather it onto. They have a few tables out the front where you can enjoy their cheap and cheerful meals too. Address: Viale Pasitea, Positano SA, Italy.
What to do:
The best way to experience Positano is by sitting on the beach, or by boat. We hired a boat through Positano Sea Dream and we had the loveliest father and son duo who took us around the cliffs where we stopped off at sea caves and Sorrento for some much needed gelato. You can BYO your own food and booze and do whatever it is you please including anchoring wherever you want to enjoy the view.
Where to stay:
We stayed at a cute and cosy Airbnb just out of town which we loved. Our host, Veronica, lives upstairs but we never saw or heard from her and our one bedroom apartment was completely self contained. It is located right off the main road and has a beautiful garden fit with a lemon tree Italy is famous for with incredible views down the coast line.
The closest major city to Positano is Naples which has an airport, ferry port and a major train station. The easiest way to get to Positano from there is to get a car service. You could hire a car but it won’t be much use to you when you get there, there is no where to park and most roads and pathways are for tiny cars, scooters and pedestrians only. We used Serrento Golisano’s Car & Limo Service (phone: 0039 081 8071833 - email email@example.com), the driver was pretty grumpy, but he knew how to wrangle those hair raising roads, so we were happy.
You can also read my guide 5 Helpful Things to Know Before Going to Positano.